Israel’s beauty endures challenging times to remain a breathtaking place to visit

I arrived in the Holy City ready for its 14th marathon, but left having experienced far more than I ever imagined - an unforgettable journey through spiritual discovery.

One of the trip's most remarkable moments arrived as we wandered through the labyrinthine streets of the Old City, where every corner held a story waiting to be discovered.

From the highest point of the Tower of David, We were treated to a jaw-dropping view of everything within its ancient walls.

Divided into four quarters, the Muslim Quarter, the Christian Quarter, the Armenian Quarter, and the Jewish Quarter, the Old City is home to holy sites like the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock Islamic shrine.

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The Western Wall is known as the Jewish faith’s most holy site as it is the final remnant of the original wall which surrounded the Second Temple.

The temple, which was built over 2,000 years ago, was destroyed in AD 70 as Jews were exiled from the city.

It has now become an open-air synagogue with divided sections for men and women to pray and reflect on their loss.

Seeing this first-hand is moving and unique. It offers an astonishing insight into the rich history of the Jewish faith.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, believed to be the site of Jesus’ crucifixion, burial and resurrection, was also humbling and profound.

Walking around this sacred site was deeply fascinating and delivered an all-encompassing feeling of spiritual renewal.

The Old City is also home to some of the best incarnations of one of the most delightful delicacies the Middle East has to offer - hummus!

While our pita, falafel and hummus went down a treat, it is just one of a plethora of options that can be enjoyed while watching the world go by in the bustling alleyways of this sacred setting.

It was then time to gear up for the main event - the marathon.

While the arduous 42.2 kilometre test was at the day’s centre, thousands also lined up for a half marathon, a 10-kilometre race, a 5-kilometre race, a family race of 1.7-kilometres, and an 800-metre community run.

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Under the bright Jerusalem sun, 45,000 runners took to the city's historic streets in a celebration of endurance and spirit.

Among them was former soldier Orli Itzhaky, who told me she had a point to prove in the five-kilometre event having not yet fully recovered from leukaemia she developed while serving her country.

Her position in the air force involved exposure to chemicals which contributed to the development of her condition.

“Feeling the people behind us is essential for the country. Completing my marathon will give me strength to continue my rehabilitation”, she said in Jerusalem’s Beit Halochem centre, a charity complex which supports Israeli veterans and their families by providing access to an extensive array of sporting facilities.

Watching events closely was ex-paratrooper Yoram Dar, a coach who suffered a serious injury in a 1984 bombing during the conflict in Lebanon.

Visibly emotional, Dar said he has found new purpose helping fellow veterans achieve their running dreams after his injury left him “ashamed”.

“I couldn’t read or study. Beit Halochem helped me take two degrees and rehabilitate. Running is a way of life and sport saved me”, he told me in a moving discussion.

This experience put into perspective some of the unique tales surrounding this day and why it has become such an important occasion.

It was hard to resist the urge to pound the Jerusalem tarmac as quickly as humanly possible and I satisfied my itch by participating in the 10-kilometre race.

Full disclosure - I am a very keen runner who competes in some of Britain’s biggest races, making the event even more enticing for me.

Thousands of Israelis lined the streets to give runners like me a heroes reception.

Finishing behind Olympians and national champions, I took home a hard-earned fifth place on a day which epitomised the holy city’s spirit.

“I took the first five-kilometres very slowly”, a jubilant 10-kilometre race winner Jamal Abdelmaji told me.

I could only politely nod and pretend to agree as I remain highly doubtful my opening five-kilometre split of 16:20 felt as comfortable as his ‘very slow’ 15:44.

Abdelmaji, a two-time Olympian, led home a field of all abilities and throwing myself around the historic streets alongside them all was something truly special.

The event, founded in 2011, infused the city with a newfound sense of optimism and energy, as performers, DJs, runners, and cheering crowds came together to create a vibrant and electric atmosphere.

“In these difficult times, we chose life and also to run for life”, said Mayor Moshe Lion, who called on Karina Ariev to act as the race patron.

Ariev spent 477 days in captivity after being taken prisoner on October 7, 2023 by Hamas when the terror group launched its deadly attack from the Gaza Strip into southern Israel.

Addressing competitors, the young woman bravely spoke of her fellow hostages with 56 said to still be in captivity, and many who were not able to return home.

“I am not here just for myself”, she said. “I am here for those who could not return, for those who fell, for those who are still waiting and for those who are forever in our hearts.”

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Leaving Jerusalem was bittersweet, as I reflected on the cherished memories created in such a short time but it was time to embark on the next chapter of our journey.

This came at Masada, an ancient fortress on a plateau overlooking the Dead Sea.

The awe-inspiring ruins are home to an epic tale of heroism where Roman legions were seen off by ancient zealots.

During the First Jewish-Roman War (66-73 CE), Jewish rebels fought off a Roman siege to make the site a symbol of resistance and courage.

The beautiful site is a must-see, not just for its incredible history but its surrounding scenery makes for jaw-dropping views.

After a day of running, it was time to recover our aches and pains. What better way to do this than float in the famous Dead Sea?

Sitting atop this salt-engulfed lake takes a few minutes to get used to as it is a bizarre sensation.

The lowest point on Earth at over 400 meters below sea level offered a one-of-a-kind opportunity to float effortlessly while soaking in the area's ancient, serene beauty.

The cherry on top of a blissful trip to Israel was visiting the coastline city of Tel Aviv.

I tried to make the most of my short stay with a long run through the country’s economic centre which took me through the beautiful Yarkon Park - a huge green space packed with dogs, walkers and joggers.

My personal highlight was Jaffa Old City, a gem located just south of Tel Aviv.

Its ancient port, clock tower and flea market were almost deserted as I made my way through in the early morning.

It made for a peaceful and idyllic setting to reflect that, despite all the challenges facing the country, Israel remains a truly breathtaking place.

This visit was made possible by the Israel Ministry of Tourism.